The Tailor and Cutter remembered by Eric Musgrave

Author of Sharp Suits and the former editorial director of Drapers , Mr Musgrave is a writer and commentator on menswear, textiles and fashion retailing. This is the third in a series of 12 contributions featuring the fascinating finds of The Tailor & Cutter.

"Like a riotous flower garden"

Tartans in The Tailor & Cutter in 1961

Although The Tailor & Cutter was based in London for its 100-plus years’ existence, the earliest incarnation of the publication was produced in Scotland in 1866 by John Williamson, who soon after moved to London. By coincidence, its celebrated post-World War II editor, John Taylor, was born in Glasgow, but also relocated “down south” at a very early age.

Given the strength and breadth of the Scottish textile industry in the first six decades of the 20th century, it’s no surprise to find many mills, textile agents and clothing manufacturers advertising their wares in the pages of the tailoring trade journal.

One theme that is easy to spot across the years is the celebration of Scottish tartans, in formal and informal use. On the 1936 cover shown above, which celebrates the 42nd birthday of King Edward VIII, the man who was only briefly the monarch is shown in the splendid uniform of the Colonel-in-chief of the Seaforth Highlanders.

Left ,  Edward VIII on the cover. 19 June 1936
Right, The Tailor & Cutter 17 February 1961, Buchanan & Henderson and Fraser Ross ad

Using the image again in 1937, by which time Edward had abdicated and had been restyled as Duke of Windsor, the magazine commented, “Though only of medium height (5ft 7½), the Duke had a majestic bearing”. But who wouldn’t look majestic, dressed in that outfit, topped off with that splendid feather bonnet?

What a pity Edward’s Highland uniform portrait is only in monochrome. Happily, by 1961, Glasgow-based kiltmakers Fraser Ross used colour for its ad featuring General Andrew Wauchope, who was killed along with many of his troops of the Highland Brigade at the Battle of Magersfontein on 11 December 1899 during the Second Boer War . Imagine wearing something like this to fight in the Cape Colony heat. Soon after the Boer War, the British Army swapped its red tunics for khaki for its battledress.

Above , The Tailor & Cutter 1 February 1957. Craigfoot Tweed Company

Left, The Tailor & Cutter 17 November 1961, Craigfoot Tweed Company
Right, The Tailor & Cutter 18 October 1963, Watt & Gibson

While these inexpensive line drawings were sufficient for commercial kilt manufacturers, it is a delight to find high-quality full-colour representations of Scottish textiles, like the 1949 example shown below from Edinburgh-based merchant George Harrison (which flourishes today as part of the Exeter-based Lear Browne & Dunsford group).

Above, The Tailor & Cutter 18 March 1949

A very short version of the history and lore of tartans was explained in one of John Taylor’s typically learned pieces from 1949(above), in which he champions the idea that the word “tartan” is French or Spanish in derivation. He reminds his readers that “tartan” is a pattern, but “plaid” is a detached outer garment worn over the shoulder. Taylor did not approve the terms becoming interchangeable.

In this feature, Taylor observes that “Nowadays, the tartan is rarely seen in men’s wear – apart from in ties…”. Twelve years later, tartan neckwear was still popular, as shown in this attractive page from the magazine.

Left, The Tailor & Cutter 23 December 1949
Right, The Tailor & Cutter 17 February 1961

As the text states, “One of the charms of Tartan is its ready ability to mix with anything. Like a riotous flower garden, full of every colour available, one never gets the impression of a ‘clashing’.”

Hear hear to that sentiment. It’s good to know Stewart Christie remains a bastion of all things tartan.

Special thanks to Eric Musgrave for this fascinating piece.