Cafe St Honoré with Chef Neil Forbes

How long have you been involved with Cafe St Honore? And why did you choose to climb on board?

I have been involved with Cafe St Honore since 2008, when my business partner and I took over from the previous couple that ran it. Cafe is such a special place for so many reasons, a lot of great chefs have worked there, and it holds many fond memories for people who have eaten there over the years. A memorable dinner, an engagement, a wedding breakfast, even just the physical space is so very special. Imagine stepping back in time to a bygone era, a back street in Paris perhaps with Bentwood chairs, crisp white linen, mirrors on the walls, chequer board floor. All very Belle Epoque.

What would be your quintessential three course menu, that would summarise the best of Scottish produce?

With such an abundance of wonderful produce available to us all in Scotland throughout the year it's not an easy one to answer. My three favourite dishes? I absolutely adore Cullen Skink as a starter. It's warming, chunky, hearty and full of goodness. The fish is smoked by my friends at Belhaven Smokehouse, who also smoke salmon for me. The tatties from Carroll's Heritage, the leeks from Phantassie Organic, and the cream from Graham's Dairy. It's a true Scottish classic. It has to be venison for the main course. Borders roe deer with Stornoway black pudding, kale and a crispy potato rosti served with a rich sauce with a few brambles added. Now I don’t have a sweet tooth, so I’m saying cheese for pudding. It has to be a huge board with a selection. Errington's Dunsyre and Lanark Blue, a mature Mull cheddar and Arran Mist Brie are all delicious. served of course with Californian raisin chutney and my crumbly oatcakes and a glass of Port.

Chefs are not always known for their sartorial presence, but seeing you in a three-piece tweed suit certainly seemed to improve your persona. What was the feedback from your family and the staff?

Chefs do have a bad reputation as being a bit grumpy and shouty. However, let's set the record straight here: I’m the nicest chef you will ever meet! Putting on my suit for the day of the shoot I couldn’t quite believe the transformation in the mirror from quite a scruffy guy wearing jeans and a t-shirt or sweatshirt or as always chef's whites. I was delighted. My family genuinely couldn’t believe it was me! I was so smart. My wife's gaze took on a whole new meaning - she looked at me differently. Even my kids said I looked stunning! Praise indeed. I had never felt as comfortable in a suit before. The cut is superb and it's as though it was specially designed for me. Dan at Stewart Christie really helped me choose the right look for me. My team at the restaurant didn’t recognise me at first. They thought I was a guest coming to eat in the restaurant! I have never used the phrase before, but I felt like a million dollars!

When you travel, I am sure you will seek out new dishes and tastes, is there ever one which has completely amazed you and where was it?

Travel is great, isn’t it? Years ago I worked in Australia and found some amazing ingredients. Kangaroo is actually delicious, and a lot like venison. But the markets and street food in Singapore will stay in my mind forever. The colours, what a spectacle. The food was incredible and a lot of chilli. Wow, it was hot! It's great to eat as the locals do. Go off the beaten path and find the busy places where locals eat. Often half the price of where the tourists are eating, and better. I ate sardines every day on the coast in Portugal, with that salty crust, cooked over hot coals. One of the simplest and nicest things I’ve eaten. With a glass of vino verde and some simple potatoes and a salad, I’m in heaven. It doesn’t quite taste the same when we eat that dish at home on a rainy, wet and miserable Wednesday in November somehow.

Who was is greatest inspiration when it comes to cooking, and what is you mantra when it comes to food?

A lot of people have inspired me to cook. One being my father who was also a chef. He is a great cook and makes the best cassoulet in the world. Fact! His thing though is pastry though and chocolate work, and pulled sugar. It's not what I do but he is very skilled at it. Many chefs inspire me. Blanc, Roux, Pierre White, Koffman, and the new kids like Rene Redzepi. But closer to home, Shirley Spear at The Three Chimneys on Skye is a real hero of mine. I admire her for all she has achieved and all she has done for cookery in Scotland. And her marmalade pudding! And then there's Meg Dodds from the 17th Century, immortalised by Walter Scott. Now she wrote some great recipes. And F Marian MacNeill for all her work. Good, honest, proper food.

Are any of your children showing signs of being creative in the kitchen?

My kids eat well and one is fussier than the other, but neither are showing signs of wanting to be chefs sadly. I'd be delighted if they did. Imagine a kitchen with grandad, son and grandson cooking in it? Now that would be amazing! But they do both enjoy cooking at home and are very competent with knives and have excellent taste buds. They make mean pizzas from scratch.

Stepping into Stewart Christies is like stepping into another era, a time gone by, a place of warmth, welcome and genuine friendly service. The interior reminds me of a Harry Potter film. Where the pupils would go to buy their cloak for the next term. I guess the one thing that stands out is the quality on show. With a vast array of styles, fabrics and colours, it's a sight to behold. Before walking in the door, take a moment to admire the outside. The windows are always incredibly well dressed. The vintage bike outside, the lights, the signwriting - its all just done very well. In a way, there are lots of similarities between Stewart Christie and Cafe St Honore.

Thank you so much to Neil Forbes for his charming interview. We could not recommend this place more highly.

Photography by Laura Meek.